When this boat was abuilding I don't really recall what Payson mentioned about rudder hardware. One thing though, there's darned little out there designed for a double ended (and pointy ended at that) sailboat. It gets a little better when you have a real stem and stern (as exposed timbers--but those timbers are buried under plywood, so some sort of canoe rudder hardware is required.
Being cheap and not really seeing anything cheap and easy to procure, the first thought was: why not make them out of wood. Yes! Wood gudgeons and wood pintles! It is a wood boat after all, no?
Somewhere around this time, I had come across the Wooden Boat Forum, and in there, lots and lots and lots of photos of James McMullen's Rowan, an Ian Oughtred design called the Sooty Tern. It certainly wasn't the boat I was going to build (being 19'--certainly not), but there were plenty of photos of construction details, including the rudder. Well, the Rowan had nice cast bronze hardware, which I wasn't thinking I could replicate. Still, good design is always an inspiration, and the idea of having flowing carved gudgeons in dark wood as brightwork against a white hull still strikes me as something really cool to attempt--with a proper bandsaw and sanders........ Lacking that certainly changed the outcome.
Wait though. Wasn't the Annas Discorse equipped with a rudder? Of course, but the Annas Discorse also has a transom, a narrow one, but a transom just the same, and so was able to use much more common gudgeons for a flat surface. A picture here will explain neatly:
From the Annas Discorse--note the transom end of the boat--not pointy. |
The wooden pintles just didn't work, the non-square pivoting of a sharpie end caused them to bind and frankly, they were really bulky and ugly--that blunt force trauma thing. They were replaced with "Payson eyes", (ie, screw eyes). They performed better, so long as the pins didn't get lost. The gudgeons actually functioned quite well, for being sort of whacked out of tight grained 2 x 4 stock. They stayed with the boat even after it was painted. The misshapen rudder stock was ok, but rudder failures kept cropping up, and that takes all the fun out of going out on the water. Time for a new plan....
Wooden Boat Magazine has a wonderful forum that is full of all sorts of interesting stuff. Even though the bulk of it is aimed toward traditional construction methods and larger boats, good design ideas and sound construction techniques are everywhere. One of the threads I was reading involved rudders, and one photo (getting permission for it) posted by "Thorne" gave me a straightforward solution to making a decent pop up rudder. Rather than having the blade of the rudder fit within the rudder stock "cheeks" why not have smaller cheeks that pivot with the rudder blade? A picture of what I built:
Simpler, easier and, as a bonus, more effective! |
So... what did I do about the pintles and gudgeons? Will, I got lucky to find a set of stainless canoe gudgeons on Ebay, and later wound up buying pintles from Duckworks. Of course the two didn't mate, as the gudgeon pins were too big, but I had access to a lathe and did machine them down, yielding a much handier setup. It certainly took time to get used to the new tiller setup, and some really exciting gybes were the result, but I consider the new rudder a success, and it will likely remain with the boat for as long as it sails.
Next time around, perhaps a look at the sails is in order, or the mast, it'll be one or the other.
Hi, Michael, Just got back from Dublin where I saw a tender (double ender) for a Viking sailing ship. It had a rudder on the starboard side. Mister Bolger was not a symmetrical person. Some of his designs had the mast off to the side, and the centre board off to the side On one design he had the rudder on the transom but not in the middle. So why not place the rudder on the starboard (steerboard) side?
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